Beauty companies are turning to neuroscent research and technology to identify the elements that attract customers
The art of perfume-making, with roots tracing back to ancient Greece, is now venturing beyond traditional methods, as contemporary perfumers explore the realm of AI. Rather than relying solely on their olfactory senses, perfumers are turning to AI.
In the present day, perfumes can be crafted to elicit emotional responses by incorporating ingredients known as “neuroscents” — fragrances demonstrated through biometric measures to evoke various positive feelings like serenity, euphoria, or relaxation.
Hugo Ferreira, a researcher at the Institute of Biophysics and Biomedical Engineering in Lisbon, is engaged in mapping brain activity and responses to perfumes, thereby building a comprehensive database of neuroscents. He finds the sense of smell captivating, stating, “While sight and hearing allow you to envision the face of a loved one or your favorite melody, it’s challenging to conjure a scent, even though it can evoke a flood of emotions and memories.
Ferreira explains that this phenomenon is attributed to the intricate structure of the olfactory system. Signals from scent receptors are transmitted through the olfactory bulb to various regions of the brain responsible for tasks ranging from memory and thirst to stress responses. “Olfaction stands out as the most versatile sense, featuring a multitude of distinct receptors. It’s estimated that there are approximately 400 different gene families related to olfactory receptors. These diverse connections may, among other things, help clarify our ability to ‘detect fear’ or discern the scent of victory.
Allow artists to work their magic; why rely on computers to reveal what our noses already sense? – Katie Puckrik, broadcaster and perfume writer
Numerous beauty brands have made substantial investments in neuroscent research and technology due to the evident potential for creating fragrances that genuinely uplift consumers’ moods. L’Oréal, for instance, has collaborated with the neurotechnology firm Emotiv to offer a unique scent selection “experience.” Throughout 2023, shoppers at select Yves Saint Laurent stores across the globe have used a headset to generate an electroencephalogram (EEG) to identify scents that resonate with them. The early results indicate that 95% of customers who used the headset discovered their ideal perfume.
In the fashion and fragrance industry, Puig conducted extensive research by collecting 45 million brain readings from men aged 18-35 to enhance the cologne Phantom by Paco Rabanne. Their findings led to the inclusion of lavender and lemon in the formula. Similarly, Givenchy’s Irresistible eau de parfum, the latest addition to the enduringly popular Very Irresistible range, incorporates a rose extract named “anti-morose,” a choice influenced by biometric research.
While mass-market fragrances can only harness this technology to a certain extent—since scents sold across five continents must cater to a broad audience—specialized perfumers are crafting highly personalized formulas. South Korean company Amorepacific, for example, produces personalized bath bombs based on real-time biodata gathered by a “bathbot,” though regrettably, these are not available internationally. On the other hand, EveryHuman, an algorithm-driven perfumery located in the Netherlands, can create unique scents within minutes using a questionnaire and algorithms. Recently, the company expanded into room fragrances, and visitors to the Moooi furniture store in London can witness their Willy Wonka-esque machine in operation.
Anahita Mekanik, co-founder of EveryHuman and a veteran of the fragrance industry with 20 years of experience in scent development and marketing, explains, “My interest in algorithmic perfumery lies in its capacity to enable people to directly engage with scents. As a fragrance developer, what intrigued me the most was that for every scent launched, thousands of variations were created and discarded.
Let the artists work their magic,” she suggests. “Why should we rely on a computer to reveal what our sense of smell already perceives? The unexpected delight of discovering a new beloved fragrance is a rare and precious moment we should grant ourselves.”
As for Ferreira, he finds the enchantment in the essence of scent itself. “We are all familiar with the use of fragrances in cosmetics and aromatherapy, which have a positive impact on our sense of well-being. However, these applications might only scratch the surface of the therapeutic potential of odorant molecules. Exploring how scent can be harnessed for health and other purposes is a pursuit spanning many lifetimes.
